Making Your Own Compost Tea

Compost Tea.  One of the hottest topics in natural gardening is actively aeriated compost tea (AACT).   This is different from the more passive leaching compost tea because you are applying air (oxygen source) and food (molasses) to the water and compost to quickly grow beneficial microbial life.  By taking good compost, full of beneficial microbial life, and putting it in a bucket of water aeriated with plent of oxygen and a food source, you can produce a living, liquid soil and plant additive that can enhance your soil health, increase plant health, yields, and beauty, and limit/prevent disease, pest, and drought damage.  And you can make it yourself for very little money.  I'll get into the science behind it in later blogs, but for now, here's the quick skinny for getting started.  Also, look in the Natural Gardening Links section for links to videos from Bob Webster and Bruce Dueley, both Texans, on compost tea making.

Building A Compost Tea Brewer.  A brewer is very easy and cheap to build.  You need a container, preferably plastic (metals can harm the microbes), an air pump, plastic tubing, air stone(s), and a tea bag large enough to hold 5 lbs. of compost.  The system you see in the picture is 25 gallons and cost less than $30.  The tub was purchased at the Dollar Store and the rest came from Walmart.  The "tea bag" is a pillowcase but I've heard that paint sprayer bags are also quite good and inexpensive.  

Set Up.  Set up your brewer on level ground in the shade with electricity nearby.  You will need electricity for the air pump so site it near an outlet.  The brewer works best in the shade as UV rays can destroy the microbes.  Finally, place it close to where you will be using it most.  It's no fun carrying it a long distance!  Hook up the air pump to the air stones using the plastic tubing.  Place the air stones on the bottom - use duct tape if they will not stay.  The pump does not go into the water!

Fill tub with clean, non-chlorinated water - rain water is best.  If you only have city water, run the air pump for several hours to remove the chorine.  When your water is ready, put your compost tea recipe into your tea bag and place in the brewer.  The bag should be secured above the bottom.  You can tie the bag to the handles or place something like a small basket in the bottom to suspend the bag.

Recipes.  Compost tea requires two ingredients:  a biological source and food for the biology.  If this is your first time brewing compost tea, I recommend starting with this simple recipe: 5 lbs. of good compost and 1 oz. of molasses.  Once you've got some success, begin adding ingredients.

Brewing Instructions.  Once your brewer is set and the tea in place, turn on your air pump and you are brewing!  It typically takes 24 hours to build a good colony of microbes.  I know people who run theirs up to 72 hours.  You can probably run it longer but you would have to mange the food/oxygen supply which could get tricky.  I will write later on some of the more complex recipes and additives that you might want to try.

How Do You Know It's Working?  Smell it!  We are designed to differentiate between beneficial and pathological microbes.  Good soil smells good.  Rotton food smells bad.  Use your nose.

Good compost tea will smell slightly sweet.  As you start running out of sugar (molasses) in the tea, the smell will become yeasty.  If it smells bad, pour it out (not on your valuable plants) and start over.

Clean-Up.  Bacteria produce slime (biofilm).  This must be cleaned up after each use.  Usually just rinsing with water will suffice but you may want to use some vinegar or mild clorox dilution.  Let it dry in the sun and it will be ready for use.

Raised Bed Gardening

Container gardening is fast becoming the standard method for gardening.  The time, energy and water requirements of planting in the ground are beyond the fast moving lives most of us live. The benefits of low maintenance, small space requirements, and great results fit lifestyles with little extra time and energy.  Container gardens can look many ways: pots, old wheelbarrows, old tractor tires,

 feed tubs, barrel halves, raised beds (permenant structures built up from the ground), and Earthboxes (the ultimate self-contained container system), just to name a few.  

Raised beds are especially popular for folks tired of managing a large garden but still want enough room to grow plenty of food.  Raised beds are also good for people who do not have adequate quality topsoil.  

Giant Cabbage in Raised at The Green House
(Red Walls-o-Water for Tub Tomatoes)

Raised beds were made popular by the book Square Foot Gardening which blasted many gardening myths on plant spacing and productivity.  In summary, the author demonstrated that plants grown close together yield more per square foot and provided the added benefits of reducing weeds and evaporation.  Using his 4x4 foot square, the author showed that a family of four could feed themselves with as little as 3 or 4 of these squares.

Are you ready to build your own raised bed?  If so, here are some easy steps to help you on your way to a successful raised bed garden.  And if you're more into container gardening, most of these steps are applicable to you as well.

1. Choosing the Location.  First, you need to know what you are going to grow.  Vegetables require full su

n.  Some plants do well in partial sun.  In Texas, "full sun" means that you can have some shade during the day and still have "full sun" (8-10 hours a day).  In early spring, be sure to take into account tree shade once the leaves have come out!  Drainage can also be important.  Do not build your garden in a drainage area and consider if how heavy rain runoff might affect your location.

2. Choosing the Size.  There is no best size or shape.  A popular size is 4 ft. by 4 ft. because you can reach all your plants without stepping into your bed causing compaction.  4 ft. by 8 ft. is also popular because so many bought materials come in 8 ft. lengths.  Heights of raised beds vary from 6 to 24 inches.  A minimum of 6 in. is needed to grow most plants.  Keep in mind that plants will make use of the soil below the raise bed as well.  Assuming that you are providing superior soil, the deeper the soil, the better your outcome.  Also, the taller the raised bed, the less stooping you will have to do.  Many beds will include a led

ge in which the gardener can sit upon. 

3. Choosing Materials.  If you are purchasing treated lumber and plan to eat what you grow, consider the possibility of chemical residue getting into your food. Avoid any materials that might contain contaminants that could enter your food.  

It can be fun (and less expensive) to think outside the box.  Recycle old lumber, garage doors, tractor tires, water troughs, etc.

4. Construction Considerations.  Be sure your container is strong enough to withstand the pressure of wet soil 

pressing against the sides.  Typically 2 inch thick lumber can span 4 ft. while 1 inch lumber should be supported every 2 feet.  Be sure to level the box.  Soil will shift and seeds will float away in unlevel beds make the bed somewhat unsightly.

Some experts say that all grass should be dug out before placing your container garden but we have used a double layer of cardboard along with a foot of soil to kill out the grass.  If gofers are a problem, tack some chicken wire on the bottom.  I prefer something looser than landscape fabric so the earthworms can travel back and forth!

5. Preparing the Soil.  Choosing the soil can be the most difficult decision of the project and it is the most important!  The quality of the soil defines your results.  Scraping up dirt from around the property may the be cheapest but it probably won't get you the results you are looking for.It will lack fertility and will most likely add weed seeds and possibly disease to your raised bed. Here are some easy steps to help you get started.

First, calculate the amount of soil you need.  Do this by multiplying the length by width by height.  Do this all in one measurement, e.g., feet.  A 4 by 4 ft. raised bed built to a height of 12 inches requires 16 cubit feet of soil (4 times 4 times 1 equals 16 cu. ft.).  

Main Ingredients: Compost, Peat Moss, Vermiculite, and Horse Manure

Next, choose your material.  You can use pre-mixed potting soil but this is usually the most expensive method.  You may also be able to purchase bulk "garden mix" or "container mix" from local composting or landscaping professionals.  Alternatively, you can make your own using inexpensive purchased ingredients, and optionally, materials around your property.

Here is an easy formula you can start with to create a "soil-less" soil which is lightweight, tilthy, and fertile. Mix 1/3 peat moss, 1/3 vermiculite, and 1/3 compost.  From there, you can add many different soil amendments to enhance your soil.  I have a custom "soil builder" which contains worm castings (9% nitrogen and earthworm eggs), corn meal (feeds beneficial fungi), dry molasses (sugars for beneficial microbes), humates (72 trace minerals), biozome (beneficial biologicals), and greensand (a mined mineral high in potassium and iron).  I also add several buckets of horse manure.  A 5 gallon bucket is approxim

ately .8 cu. ft.  Experiment and find what works for you. 

Remember, the SOIL is THE KEY to a successful garden, both in terms of yield, taste, and disease, pest, and drought resistance.

Once your soil is in place, mix and water thoroughly.  If you used a lot of peat, you may want to put a sprinkler on your bed because it takes time to get the stuff wet!  Stay tuned as we begin planting in 

our new raised bed....

Great Plants Start with Great Soil!

The soil is THE key to healthy and productive plants.  We all tend to blame insects, disease (unseen pests), and drought for our problems, but, in truth, it started at the beginning of the season during soil preparation.  In my lawn and gardens, I have very few problems and I attribute it to putting in the effort and money in the beginning on building up great stores of energy and nutrition in the soil.  After that, the "life underground" takes care of the rest.  I'm pretty lazy after planting, only side-dressing or drenching plants when they appear stressed or underperforming, but I spend lots of time and energy up front.

Here's my recommendations for getting off to a great start this garden season.   I have three strategies:  First, for new or worn-out beds, I use a soil building formula that includes trace minerals, a carbon source to improve tilth and hold water, and food (sugars) for the microorganisms (which constitute the stomach of the plant digesting your soil addtivies into a form the plant can use).  I use rock dusts such as greensand and humates for the trace minerals.  I use corn meal (a mild fertilizer, carbon source, and natural fungicide) and dry molasses (a sugar and carbon source).  I spread it across the bed and work it in a few inches.  Second, I feed the plants.  For new plants, I "spike the hole" when I'm planting with a high powered organic fertilizer.  By only fertilizing in the hole, I'm only feeding my plant; not the weeds.  Since organic fertilizers are water insoluble, there is virtually no leaching and they become available when the plant/soil ecosystem request it.  For existing beds, I broadcast an organic fertilizer (my favorite is Buds N Blooms 6-8-4) around the plants and water in.  Third, and finally, I spread a manure based compost around the plants.  Compost is a "natural tonic" that fixes most soil problems very quickly.  If/when you have problem later on, I suggest you first try spreading a thin layer of compost around the sick plant and water in.  Many times, this will solve the problem.

To summarize 1-Build the Soil, 2 - Feed the Plant, 3 - Compost.  Then enjoy the results!

St. Augustine Lawn Care...Naturally

Got a yellow lawn?  There may be a reason.  University experts have recommended high level of phosphorous (the P in N-P-K in conventional fertilizers) as part of their lawn care recommendations for years.  This has become a problem because phosphorous is an unusual mineral in that it doesn't travel in the soil like other water soluble minerals.  It builds up over time in the top 1/2 to one inch of soil where most of the roots reside.  Phosphorous binds with other important minerals including iron, copper and zinc making these unavailable to the plants.  The plants have a mineral deficit and turn yellow.  Temporary relief can be provided by adding the deficient trace mineral but it quickly binds up and the yellowing returns.

A group of my customers have found an interesting solution that has yielded beautiful lawns once again.  The "secret ingredient" is Texas Greensand, a marined-based mined mineral called glauconite containing high levels of slow-releasing potassium, iron and a balance mix of trace minerals.  They combine it with a good organic lawn fertilizer (I recommend Medina 5-3-4) in equal parts and broadcast at 20 lbs. per 1000 sq.ft. (that's 10 pounds of each per 1000 sq.ft.).  My experience has been that organic fertilizers last longer than water-soluble chemical fertilizers such as Scott's (of which 90% is lost after 2 inches of irrigation or rainfall) so two application a year should be adequate depending upon the health of your lawn.  Don't forget, a healthy lawn will be more beautiful and more disease and drought resistant.  Natural lawn care will save you money in the long run.

Heirloom Tomatoes

I'm somewhat known for my heirloom tomatoes with their funny appearance and unique tastes.  While most people focus on the productive capability of the hybrid varieties such as Celebrity, there are some advantages in heirloom tomatoes including taste, interest, a longer production season and, of course, FUN!.  I include both in my garden to ensure a longer season and insurance against a bad Celebrity year like last year.  Heirloom tomatoes come in many colors, shapes, and tastes.  One key difference in heirlooms is that you can save your seeds.  That means no more relying on the seed companies.  Not all varieties of heirlooms do well in every location.  Some trial and error is required to determine which ones will grow in your area.  Some of my favorites for the Texas Hill Country include: Black Krim (a dark red tomato with fantastic flavor - produces early and grows up to a pound), Watermelon Beefsteak (my red with pink and yellow streaks, tastes good and my biggest tomato at 1 lb. 10 oz.!), Santiam and Orange Queen (early season tomatoes that can be producing early in June well before Celebrity), Evergreen (yes, its green with a mellow, sweet taste), and Garden Peach (a fuzzy tomato that looks like a peach!).  Other favorites include Brandywine, German Head, Arkansas Traveler, and Mortgage Lifter.  It's too late to start heirlooms from seed this year (seeds need to be planted in Jan. - Feb.) but many specialty nurseries will carry them.  Start small with just a few plants and be sure to use plenty of compost and natural fertilizer for best results.  Inadequate fertilizer will results in big beautiful plants and little or no fruit.  Have fun!

Too Little Room? Water? Time? Try Container Gardening

There seem to be many more people interested in vegetable gardening this year.  I hear that more are wanting to be able to grow their own food either because of high costs, fear of future availability or the recent evidence that the food available is of low quality.  Whatever your reasons, you may want to consider container gardening.  Container gardening takes less space and water, produces more per square foot, requires less maintenance and no large equipment.  It is ideal for town folk with limited room and/or high water bills.  It also suits those will less time and energy to work a big garden.  Container gardens can come in many packages.  Pots, old feed tubs, split barrels, are perrienal favorites but can get difficult to keep watered in the heat of the summer.  Raised beds are excellent for larger gardens and, if built up 18 to 24 in. can reduce stress on the back.  They also hold water longer than smaller containers.  Another good choice is the Earthbox.  It is an all-in-one package with water storage in the bottom that takes advantage of the soils natural wicking characteristics.  While pricey, they offer the most freedom and self-sufficiency.  You can see an Earthbox above with broccoli.

Preventing Grassburs...Naturally

March is the time to to apply horticultural corn gluten to prevent grassburs.  Corn gluten is a natural non-selective pre-emergent which means that it prohibits all plant species from germinating from seed.  So don't apply it anywhere you want to grow plants from seeds such as gardens, wild flowers and flower beds.  You will notice significant reduction in grassburs the first year and vigilence for three years will get the population under control.  A nice benefit of corn gluten is that it is also a good organic fertilizer with 9-10 percent nitrogen...and of course it contains no harmful chemicals!  You may also want use it in your garden to prevent weeds once all plants are up and growing.  Application rate is 15 to 20 pounds per 1000 sq. ft. and it lasts for 10-12 weeks.  You may need to apply a second time in a wet summer and/or fall.  If dry, water it in to activate it.