DIE TOMATOES DIE!!!

It' been a long, hot summer...not much of a year for gardening. The biggest surprise for me came from the mass die-off of my tomato plants -- all varieties. At first, the attack looked like red spider mites but the plants did not respond to the normal treatments. The plants continued to turn white with a moldy, fuzzy stuff on many of the stems. I was stumped as to the cause until I read an article about how home gardeners across the country were losing their tomato plants to a very contagious disease - the same disease that caused the potato famine. While it doesn't harm humans, it is to tomatoes what the plague is to us...deadly! Most of the press that I read tracked the source of the disease to Bonnie Farms, a nationwide chain of growers that service the big box stores such as Walmart and Lowes. I got the disease from a last minute purchase of Celebrity tomatoes from Walmart and it spread like wildfire to all my tomato plants (and egg plants too) in very little time. To me, it's another example of the failure of factory farming. I will never mix purchased plants with my own home-grown starts again.

Watering Tips

With the increasing heat, you will notice that vegetable and ornamental plants may show stress during the heat of the day by "wilting" and otherwise turning their leaves away from the sun.  This is a normal response and should not be confused with wilting due to lack of water.   Many plants including tomatoes, most herbs, and Texas natives do better when they are allowed to dry out between waterings.  Don't be suckered into watering by the midday wilts.  If the wilting is caused by heat, the plants will return to their vibrant selves by morning.  If they are wilted in the a.m., then it is definitely time to water!

This is also time to begin thinking about mulching.  Four inches of mulch around a plant reduces evaporation and soil temperature resulting in less watering and better plant health.  I prefer cedar mulch or hardwood mulch.  A good aged mulch will be a rich, dark brown.  Cedar has the added benefit of a nice aromatic smell.  Don't use decorative bark as it washes away, provides a home for unwanted insects, and does not provide the same benefits as the other mulches.

Worms on my Tomatoes!!!!

Horn are always a problem but this year there are worms eating my tomatoes!  And other customers are having the same problem.  There's an easy fix - BT!  It is a biological that comes in a powder to be applied directly or a liquid that you mix with water and spray the plant.  Follows label directions and apply over entire plant.  Evening is best as BT is a biological and the heat and sun can affect its efficacy.  Worms will quit eating after one bite but it may take a few days before they turn black and DIE!  BT works on all worms.  Good Luck!

Raised Bed Update

I finally got my demonstration raised beds planted with lots of veggies of all kinds.  

Arch.  I used a piece of welded wire to create an arch between the beds to train the tomatoes, cantalope, cucumbers, and pole beans (barely visable in second picture).  I can walk under the arch and pick the produce!  By using the space between the beds, I expanded the amount of available soil space for more plants.  

I selected indeterminate tomatoes to climb the trellas.  The hanging cantalopes will need a little extra help in the form of pantyhose to prevent a fall to the hard earth.

I also planted peppers, bush beans, squash and eggplant - all in two 4x4 foot plots!  Check out the picture and stay tuned for more updates!

May Gardening Activities

Sorry it's been so long since I've posted...it's been very busy around here!  Our place looks...if you haven't stopped by, come visit us!

May is a great gardening month.  It's still not too late to plant vegetables, herbs and summer annuals.  And it's a great time to work on any landscaping projects - get those plants in the ground before it's too hot.  See the post below on starting your pumpking patch and don't forget about your fall garden...believe it or not, it's getting to be time to start your own tomato seedlings for the fall.  I'll post a fall seed starting chart later for all cool season veggies later on.

Lawn Care.  May is when grass really takes off.  If you haven't fertilized, now is the time.  A good organic granular fertilizer mixed with greensand will keep most lawns looking great and is especially good for St. Augustine lawns with chlorosis (yellowing).  Greensand is difficult to put out but spreads easily when mixed with the fertilizer.

Growing GIANT Pumpkins

One of the biggest challenges in gardening is remember to plant when it is time well in advance of the rewards of the crop.  Pumpkins fits this category very well.  I never think of planting until September or October...but NOW is the time to plant.   Thanks to our resident master gardener, Susan Chadwick and a friend of hers, we have the scoop on how to grow great pumpkins.  While you may not be able to grow a record 1000 pounder (we don't have enough daylight hours), you may grow one approaching 100 lbs.  Here's some ideas to make your pumpkin garden a success...and be sure to include the kids, they will love it!

A June planting date will get you ripe pumpkins on the vine - about 85-160 days after planting.  Seed germination can be a problem so you may want to germinate the seeds in a wet paper towel or a small pot of potting soil to be sure that you have a viable plant.  Plant 4-6 seeds or tranplant a single plant every 6 feet about 8 feet apart.  You need lots of room for pumpkin as vines can grow up to 50 feet long!  Thin plants if more than 1 or 2 seeds germinate.  Pumpkins like very loose soil so you may want to build a mound with plenty of tilthy soil.  Fertilize with a complete fertilizer and light on the nitrogen!  Fertilize at planting and side dress monthly.

Arrange the vine like a Christmas tree allowing the primary and secondary shoots to grow but trimming off all third vines.

For ensuring maximum yield (size), you may want to help pollination along.  The female flower has a small nodule on the stem just below the petals.  When the male and femal flowers are open (you can use flowers from different plants), pick the male flower and brushed inside the female flower.  You can even leave the male flower inside the female closing the female's petals around the male flower.  This wraps it all up and keeps bees and beetles from interrupting the process!

You will want the vines to curve in an "S" shape to allow some slack as the pumpking grows.  If the vine comes under too much pressure, it can break and all is lost!

Once the pumpkins are growing, cover them with a light sheet to keep them from sunburning.  Always take around the vines as they are very fragile.

Victory Gardens, Heirlooms & More...

Recently, there was an article in the Dallas Morning News on Victory Gardens and heirloom tomatoes.  It confirms what we've already known - that many more people are planting gardens in their backyards and even in containers on their porches and many people are experimenting with heirloom tomatoes.

People are drawn to heirloom tomatoes for different reasons.  For some, it is the ability to save seed.  For others, it is flavor, color and variety.  They also produce at varying times making tomatoes available more of the year.  Heirlooms have a much more diverse genetic background than hybrids.  Most hybrids are so similar that you can't even tell the plants or fruit apart.  I grow my own heirloom tomato plants.  Here's some of my favorites:

Black Krim - dark fruit with green shoulders.  Great tasting and early maturing.  Does a little better in cooler weather so it is complimentary to Celebrity, producing earlier in the season.  Determine-like plant staying compact.

Cherokee Purple - deep pink color, kidney-shaped, and great tasting.  Can produce "pounders".  Does well in our area. Indeterminate.  Matures in 80 days or so.

Watermelon Beefsteak - My favorite big tomato producer so far.  One plant produced two giant tomatoes last year, the biggest weighing in at 1 lb. 10 oz.!  red, yellow and pink streaked tomato (see pictures on this page).

Mortgage Lifter - According legend, the inventor paid his mortgage selling this tomato.  A "typical" red tomato.  Several locals swear that this variety can produce equal to Celebrity.

Peach Tomato - A wonderful, unique tomato that acturally looks like a peach - fuzzy creamy yellow with a pink blush.  Great taste and a prolific producer many years.

There are many others.  I have grown over 30 different varieties of heirlooms with varying success.  Some more common varieties include yellow pear, porter, san marzano, and most cherries.  The main ingredient to success for heirlooms is organic practices:  lot's of organic fertilizer and compost.  They were not bred for sterile soil and Miracle Grow!

Picking the First Tomato! Planting Early...

TIME TO PLANT?  Well, is it time yet?  According to the "ol' timers", anytime after Easter is safe.  However, the farmer's almanac says that we can expect a windy, cold period through April 24th with a possible light freeze.  Still, when the weather gets pretty, it's hard not to get started, especially in our country where it gets sooo hot sooo fast!  I feel a lot of pressure to produce not only the biggest tomatoes in the county but the earliest one as well.  Here are some ideas for a safe, effective approach to jump-start your garden.

PROTECTING EARLY PLANTINGS.  For tomatoes, peppers and other transplants, you can plant early with a little care.  Plants know what time of year it is so if the temperature and length of daylight hours isn't enough, you won't get much benefit, especially peppers who like it hot.  

For tomatoes, start with an early season variety.  People tell me Early Girl is an excellent early-season hybrid.  I plant several heirlooms that produce early including Black Krim, Santiam, and Orange Queen.

Once planted, a bucket or tarp over a plant can protect up to 5 degrees in my experience.  It's important that the cover not touch the plant and there are no air leaks around the bottom.  I have had plant tips burn when touching the side of a bucket or covering.  

START INSIDE.  I start inside.  I pot up my tomatoes several times building up to gallon containers and never allowing rootbound to occur.  I keep them in my greenhouse but you can easily leave them outside to harden off and bring them in whenever there is a freeze chance.  This seems to be the best way to get a head start even beating the Walls-o-Water.  For squash, watermelon, and cucumber, you can start the seeds indoors a few weeks before you last freeze date and get a little head start on the season.  Just drop a few seeds in a pot and keep near a lighted window.

WALLS-O-WATER are great ways to start tomatoes early.  These are plastic slips which, when filled with water provide protection from wind and cold in addition for providing a greenhouse effect of warmth giving the plants a head start.

PROTECT FROM THE WIND.  Regardless of when you plan to plant, give your tender transplants protection from the wind.  It is always windy this time of year and the wind literally sucks the growth potential right out of your plant.  You will receive huge benefits from giving your plant protection.  Any kind of recycled container can work including paper milk cartons and plastic milk cartons with bottoms and tops cut out.  Press them into the soil about an inch for cutworm protection as well.  People have used old black nursery containers with the bottoms cut out but be sure to remove them before it gets hot.  I wrap row cover material around my cages to protect them from the wind.  It only lasts a season but is relatively inexpensive and easy to install.

GETTING THE FIRST TOMATO (FOR ADVANCED (or crazy) GROWERS).  I like the bragging rights for the earliest tomato.  Last year, my first tomato was ripe April 20th.  It was a Glacier, an artic tomato that sets in 45 degrees.  It's not very tasty or a heavy producer, but I had the first tomato!  I used all of the ideas above including potting up and growing it in the greenhouse much of the time.  Another, more useful idea is to grow Gold Nuggets.  It is a golden cherry that produces in 45 days and provides tasty fruit throughout the summer.  You can usually get a Gold Nugget by May 1st!

Did You Know? Organic vs. Conventional Farming

Part of this week's Natural Gardening class was on the history, myths and current research surrounding organic and conventional farming and foods.  Here's some of the highlights:

Organic Farming is What We Used to Do Before Science -  Not (entirely) true.  While organic practices have been going on for centuries, many of the past failures we remember had more to do with the technology and "modern practices" of the time.  For example, the Dust Bowls were a caused by a combination of the invention and misuse of the tractor and poor (non-organic) farming practices.  At the turn of the century, the invention of the tractor opened up the American "breadbelt" of the midwest.  The organic content of the soil was around 10% and was some of the most fertile soil in the world.  All a landowner had to do was to plow a spot and plant it.  And he did...until the soil was depleted.  Then he would move to the next spot. Finally, there was nothing but depleted, exposed soil and, with drought and wind, came the dust bowls.  If you want to consider how technology has affected agricultural sustainability, consider this:  America has lost more topsoil in the last 50 years than China has in the last 5000 years.

The Green Revolution and the Advent of Chemical Agriculture.  For decades, we couldn't feed ourselves and were a net importer of food.  After WWII, munitions factories were converted to produce fertilizer and pesticides were created from war tools such as Agent Orange.  It was called the "Green Revolution" because the results were remarkeable.  Yields skyrocketed and we became the food provider of the world!

The Green Revolution and Non-Sustainability.  However, this type of "instant gratification" farming has come with a price.  We continue to lose our topsoil.  As example, the geographical map of the mouth of the Mississippi must be redrawn every decade as new land appears as a result of runoff.  This runoff, filled with chemical fertilizer, also creates a "dead zone" 7000-9000 squares in the Gulf of Mexico.  the fertilizer feeds the algea which in turn use up all the oxygen and kill or run off all life in the area.  Yields have stabilized or declined in spite of increasing use of fertilizers and pesticides.  GMO crops that were susposed to reduce the use of chemicals have actually increased resistance of pests and "super weeds" and Round-up is being used at an all-time high for many crops.  Costs of inputs is also increasing.  Chemical nitrogen is made from 33,000 to 40,000 cu. ft. of natural gas, a non-sustainable natural resource to produce only 1 ton of fertilizer.  Many of the other fertilizer components such as phosphorous, potash, and trace minerals remain at a high price as they are being exported to China, India and other countries.  Probably most important, there is evidence that quality is declining.  According to USDA records, nutritional quality (the amount of vitamins and minerals) is declining.  Researchers speculate that the increase in size of produce is mainly due to increased fiber and water.  Others also speculate that the exclusive focus on the major nutrients has caused deficiencies in trace minerals and other properties only found in live soil is resulting in a decline in the nutrition in the end result - our food.

The Green Revolution looks very similar to the economic credit bubble - buy now, pay later - that we are coping with.  Hopefully, we won't have to endure the same pain when we are required to pay for our past farming practices.

Organic vs. Conventional Agriculture.  Conventional agriculture is viewed as a chemical process where the soil is the medium, fertilizers feed the plants, and chemicals protect the plants from random, external attacks of pests and disease.  The role of soil life is limited to "mineralization" and all fertilizers are considered the same.  Organic (Natural) agriculture is viewed as a complex, natural, living system of interdependent cycles.  Organic farmers work with nature to maximize and enhance plant growth and health and see the soil as the key to a successful result.  Pests, weeds, and disease are seen as a result of incorrect soil balance.  Pests and disease are treated in ways that don't destroy the soil and, in addition, they are evaluated to determine what steps to take to correct the soil.  The good organic farmer can see a weed and tell you what's wrong with the soil!

Organic Food and Free Markets.  Another huge difference between conventional and organic food is the market.  Conventional agriculture is a hugely subusidized and protected by the government.  Ag corporations regularly influence the USDA and most executive positions are held by former corporate executives.  The USDA is more of a trade organization than the protectors of our food.  Organic farming and food is a free market system created from grassroots support of both the producers and consumers.  It is the highest food standard of the world, received virtually no money from the government, and the indivitual farmers can make a decent living.  While the USDA administers the certified organic program, it is because of the continued pressure from the farmers and consumers that the standard has not been too diluted.  It is an industry born from American values.

The "Organic Farming Cannot Feed the World" Myth.  The biggest argument made against organic agriculture is that it cannot feed the world.  This appears to be a myth as recent research points to organic agriculture's ability to produce as much or more food than conventional agriculture!  There has been several studies in Europe that support this but the one that got my attention is from the US.  Iowa State conducted a study comparing organic and conventionally grown corn in otherwise identical conditions.  The organically grown corn either match or beat the conventionally grown corn in yield.  Much of the gain was in kernal size!  As conventional agriculture continues its decline and organic farmers get smarter, we may see the evidence become overwhelming.

Organic Costs More Than Conventional Food.  Yes, it does.  But would it if your tax dollars didn't subsize conventional food?  The mostly highly subsidized food is usually surprising to most people:  it is meat!  It's because the highest subsidies are on feed grains.  Most of your tax money doesn't go to food but to feed.  That is my many people are now pushing Congress to rename the Farm Bill, the Food Bill, and refocus nutritious, abundance, quality food.

The Link Between Food and Health.  The question of cost would be very different if healthcare was included in the calculation.  The Center for Disease Control (CDC) has admitted that as much as 70% of our modern diseases (cancer, heart disease, and diabetes) are linked to diet and lifestyle.  It is now known that these diseases can be prevented and even reversed by making diet and lifestyle changes.  How much of our health problems are created by our cheap, non-nutrituous food?

The Future of Organics.  As organics grows, the mega-corporations are buying out the smaller organic companies.  With this has come pressure to increase profits by diluting quality.  Horizon and Aurora (a private label company that provides milk to Walmart and HEB) both cheat on their milk by not allowing the cows grass while lactating.  This milk costs a buck less than the non-cheaters such as Organic Valley and Woodstock Farms but I have not doubt that the grass is critical to maintaining the nutritional value of the milk.  Organics foods are being imported from around the world, traveling thousands of miles to your door.  The USDA will not and cannot monitor the quality of food from China and other countries.  The future may well be in our ability to shop and support local farmers.  Fredericksburg Texas has a "Be a Localvore" program promoting locally-grown food.  Organic standards may not keep up with state of the art practices as well.  By knowing the farmer, you can make your own choices on how your food is grown.

Making Your Own Compost Tea

Compost Tea.  One of the hottest topics in natural gardening is actively aeriated compost tea (AACT).   This is different from the more passive leaching compost tea because you are applying air (oxygen source) and food (molasses) to the water and compost to quickly grow beneficial microbial life.  By taking good compost, full of beneficial microbial life, and putting it in a bucket of water aeriated with plent of oxygen and a food source, you can produce a living, liquid soil and plant additive that can enhance your soil health, increase plant health, yields, and beauty, and limit/prevent disease, pest, and drought damage.  And you can make it yourself for very little money.  I'll get into the science behind it in later blogs, but for now, here's the quick skinny for getting started.  Also, look in the Natural Gardening Links section for links to videos from Bob Webster and Bruce Dueley, both Texans, on compost tea making.

Building A Compost Tea Brewer.  A brewer is very easy and cheap to build.  You need a container, preferably plastic (metals can harm the microbes), an air pump, plastic tubing, air stone(s), and a tea bag large enough to hold 5 lbs. of compost.  The system you see in the picture is 25 gallons and cost less than $30.  The tub was purchased at the Dollar Store and the rest came from Walmart.  The "tea bag" is a pillowcase but I've heard that paint sprayer bags are also quite good and inexpensive.  

Set Up.  Set up your brewer on level ground in the shade with electricity nearby.  You will need electricity for the air pump so site it near an outlet.  The brewer works best in the shade as UV rays can destroy the microbes.  Finally, place it close to where you will be using it most.  It's no fun carrying it a long distance!  Hook up the air pump to the air stones using the plastic tubing.  Place the air stones on the bottom - use duct tape if they will not stay.  The pump does not go into the water!

Fill tub with clean, non-chlorinated water - rain water is best.  If you only have city water, run the air pump for several hours to remove the chorine.  When your water is ready, put your compost tea recipe into your tea bag and place in the brewer.  The bag should be secured above the bottom.  You can tie the bag to the handles or place something like a small basket in the bottom to suspend the bag.

Recipes.  Compost tea requires two ingredients:  a biological source and food for the biology.  If this is your first time brewing compost tea, I recommend starting with this simple recipe: 5 lbs. of good compost and 1 oz. of molasses.  Once you've got some success, begin adding ingredients.

Brewing Instructions.  Once your brewer is set and the tea in place, turn on your air pump and you are brewing!  It typically takes 24 hours to build a good colony of microbes.  I know people who run theirs up to 72 hours.  You can probably run it longer but you would have to mange the food/oxygen supply which could get tricky.  I will write later on some of the more complex recipes and additives that you might want to try.

How Do You Know It's Working?  Smell it!  We are designed to differentiate between beneficial and pathological microbes.  Good soil smells good.  Rotton food smells bad.  Use your nose.

Good compost tea will smell slightly sweet.  As you start running out of sugar (molasses) in the tea, the smell will become yeasty.  If it smells bad, pour it out (not on your valuable plants) and start over.

Clean-Up.  Bacteria produce slime (biofilm).  This must be cleaned up after each use.  Usually just rinsing with water will suffice but you may want to use some vinegar or mild clorox dilution.  Let it dry in the sun and it will be ready for use.

Raised Bed Gardening

Container gardening is fast becoming the standard method for gardening.  The time, energy and water requirements of planting in the ground are beyond the fast moving lives most of us live. The benefits of low maintenance, small space requirements, and great results fit lifestyles with little extra time and energy.  Container gardens can look many ways: pots, old wheelbarrows, old tractor tires,

 feed tubs, barrel halves, raised beds (permenant structures built up from the ground), and Earthboxes (the ultimate self-contained container system), just to name a few.  

Raised beds are especially popular for folks tired of managing a large garden but still want enough room to grow plenty of food.  Raised beds are also good for people who do not have adequate quality topsoil.  

Giant Cabbage in Raised at The Green House
(Red Walls-o-Water for Tub Tomatoes)

Raised beds were made popular by the book Square Foot Gardening which blasted many gardening myths on plant spacing and productivity.  In summary, the author demonstrated that plants grown close together yield more per square foot and provided the added benefits of reducing weeds and evaporation.  Using his 4x4 foot square, the author showed that a family of four could feed themselves with as little as 3 or 4 of these squares.

Are you ready to build your own raised bed?  If so, here are some easy steps to help you on your way to a successful raised bed garden.  And if you're more into container gardening, most of these steps are applicable to you as well.

1. Choosing the Location.  First, you need to know what you are going to grow.  Vegetables require full su

n.  Some plants do well in partial sun.  In Texas, "full sun" means that you can have some shade during the day and still have "full sun" (8-10 hours a day).  In early spring, be sure to take into account tree shade once the leaves have come out!  Drainage can also be important.  Do not build your garden in a drainage area and consider if how heavy rain runoff might affect your location.

2. Choosing the Size.  There is no best size or shape.  A popular size is 4 ft. by 4 ft. because you can reach all your plants without stepping into your bed causing compaction.  4 ft. by 8 ft. is also popular because so many bought materials come in 8 ft. lengths.  Heights of raised beds vary from 6 to 24 inches.  A minimum of 6 in. is needed to grow most plants.  Keep in mind that plants will make use of the soil below the raise bed as well.  Assuming that you are providing superior soil, the deeper the soil, the better your outcome.  Also, the taller the raised bed, the less stooping you will have to do.  Many beds will include a led

ge in which the gardener can sit upon. 

3. Choosing Materials.  If you are purchasing treated lumber and plan to eat what you grow, consider the possibility of chemical residue getting into your food. Avoid any materials that might contain contaminants that could enter your food.  

It can be fun (and less expensive) to think outside the box.  Recycle old lumber, garage doors, tractor tires, water troughs, etc.

4. Construction Considerations.  Be sure your container is strong enough to withstand the pressure of wet soil 

pressing against the sides.  Typically 2 inch thick lumber can span 4 ft. while 1 inch lumber should be supported every 2 feet.  Be sure to level the box.  Soil will shift and seeds will float away in unlevel beds make the bed somewhat unsightly.

Some experts say that all grass should be dug out before placing your container garden but we have used a double layer of cardboard along with a foot of soil to kill out the grass.  If gofers are a problem, tack some chicken wire on the bottom.  I prefer something looser than landscape fabric so the earthworms can travel back and forth!

5. Preparing the Soil.  Choosing the soil can be the most difficult decision of the project and it is the most important!  The quality of the soil defines your results.  Scraping up dirt from around the property may the be cheapest but it probably won't get you the results you are looking for.It will lack fertility and will most likely add weed seeds and possibly disease to your raised bed. Here are some easy steps to help you get started.

First, calculate the amount of soil you need.  Do this by multiplying the length by width by height.  Do this all in one measurement, e.g., feet.  A 4 by 4 ft. raised bed built to a height of 12 inches requires 16 cubit feet of soil (4 times 4 times 1 equals 16 cu. ft.).  

Main Ingredients: Compost, Peat Moss, Vermiculite, and Horse Manure

Next, choose your material.  You can use pre-mixed potting soil but this is usually the most expensive method.  You may also be able to purchase bulk "garden mix" or "container mix" from local composting or landscaping professionals.  Alternatively, you can make your own using inexpensive purchased ingredients, and optionally, materials around your property.

Here is an easy formula you can start with to create a "soil-less" soil which is lightweight, tilthy, and fertile. Mix 1/3 peat moss, 1/3 vermiculite, and 1/3 compost.  From there, you can add many different soil amendments to enhance your soil.  I have a custom "soil builder" which contains worm castings (9% nitrogen and earthworm eggs), corn meal (feeds beneficial fungi), dry molasses (sugars for beneficial microbes), humates (72 trace minerals), biozome (beneficial biologicals), and greensand (a mined mineral high in potassium and iron).  I also add several buckets of horse manure.  A 5 gallon bucket is approxim

ately .8 cu. ft.  Experiment and find what works for you. 

Remember, the SOIL is THE KEY to a successful garden, both in terms of yield, taste, and disease, pest, and drought resistance.

Once your soil is in place, mix and water thoroughly.  If you used a lot of peat, you may want to put a sprinkler on your bed because it takes time to get the stuff wet!  Stay tuned as we begin planting in 

our new raised bed....

Great Plants Start with Great Soil!

The soil is THE key to healthy and productive plants.  We all tend to blame insects, disease (unseen pests), and drought for our problems, but, in truth, it started at the beginning of the season during soil preparation.  In my lawn and gardens, I have very few problems and I attribute it to putting in the effort and money in the beginning on building up great stores of energy and nutrition in the soil.  After that, the "life underground" takes care of the rest.  I'm pretty lazy after planting, only side-dressing or drenching plants when they appear stressed or underperforming, but I spend lots of time and energy up front.

Here's my recommendations for getting off to a great start this garden season.   I have three strategies:  First, for new or worn-out beds, I use a soil building formula that includes trace minerals, a carbon source to improve tilth and hold water, and food (sugars) for the microorganisms (which constitute the stomach of the plant digesting your soil addtivies into a form the plant can use).  I use rock dusts such as greensand and humates for the trace minerals.  I use corn meal (a mild fertilizer, carbon source, and natural fungicide) and dry molasses (a sugar and carbon source).  I spread it across the bed and work it in a few inches.  Second, I feed the plants.  For new plants, I "spike the hole" when I'm planting with a high powered organic fertilizer.  By only fertilizing in the hole, I'm only feeding my plant; not the weeds.  Since organic fertilizers are water insoluble, there is virtually no leaching and they become available when the plant/soil ecosystem request it.  For existing beds, I broadcast an organic fertilizer (my favorite is Buds N Blooms 6-8-4) around the plants and water in.  Third, and finally, I spread a manure based compost around the plants.  Compost is a "natural tonic" that fixes most soil problems very quickly.  If/when you have problem later on, I suggest you first try spreading a thin layer of compost around the sick plant and water in.  Many times, this will solve the problem.

To summarize 1-Build the Soil, 2 - Feed the Plant, 3 - Compost.  Then enjoy the results!

St. Augustine Lawn Care...Naturally

Got a yellow lawn?  There may be a reason.  University experts have recommended high level of phosphorous (the P in N-P-K in conventional fertilizers) as part of their lawn care recommendations for years.  This has become a problem because phosphorous is an unusual mineral in that it doesn't travel in the soil like other water soluble minerals.  It builds up over time in the top 1/2 to one inch of soil where most of the roots reside.  Phosphorous binds with other important minerals including iron, copper and zinc making these unavailable to the plants.  The plants have a mineral deficit and turn yellow.  Temporary relief can be provided by adding the deficient trace mineral but it quickly binds up and the yellowing returns.

A group of my customers have found an interesting solution that has yielded beautiful lawns once again.  The "secret ingredient" is Texas Greensand, a marined-based mined mineral called glauconite containing high levels of slow-releasing potassium, iron and a balance mix of trace minerals.  They combine it with a good organic lawn fertilizer (I recommend Medina 5-3-4) in equal parts and broadcast at 20 lbs. per 1000 sq.ft. (that's 10 pounds of each per 1000 sq.ft.).  My experience has been that organic fertilizers last longer than water-soluble chemical fertilizers such as Scott's (of which 90% is lost after 2 inches of irrigation or rainfall) so two application a year should be adequate depending upon the health of your lawn.  Don't forget, a healthy lawn will be more beautiful and more disease and drought resistant.  Natural lawn care will save you money in the long run.

Heirloom Tomatoes

I'm somewhat known for my heirloom tomatoes with their funny appearance and unique tastes.  While most people focus on the productive capability of the hybrid varieties such as Celebrity, there are some advantages in heirloom tomatoes including taste, interest, a longer production season and, of course, FUN!.  I include both in my garden to ensure a longer season and insurance against a bad Celebrity year like last year.  Heirloom tomatoes come in many colors, shapes, and tastes.  One key difference in heirlooms is that you can save your seeds.  That means no more relying on the seed companies.  Not all varieties of heirlooms do well in every location.  Some trial and error is required to determine which ones will grow in your area.  Some of my favorites for the Texas Hill Country include: Black Krim (a dark red tomato with fantastic flavor - produces early and grows up to a pound), Watermelon Beefsteak (my red with pink and yellow streaks, tastes good and my biggest tomato at 1 lb. 10 oz.!), Santiam and Orange Queen (early season tomatoes that can be producing early in June well before Celebrity), Evergreen (yes, its green with a mellow, sweet taste), and Garden Peach (a fuzzy tomato that looks like a peach!).  Other favorites include Brandywine, German Head, Arkansas Traveler, and Mortgage Lifter.  It's too late to start heirlooms from seed this year (seeds need to be planted in Jan. - Feb.) but many specialty nurseries will carry them.  Start small with just a few plants and be sure to use plenty of compost and natural fertilizer for best results.  Inadequate fertilizer will results in big beautiful plants and little or no fruit.  Have fun!

Too Little Room? Water? Time? Try Container Gardening

There seem to be many more people interested in vegetable gardening this year.  I hear that more are wanting to be able to grow their own food either because of high costs, fear of future availability or the recent evidence that the food available is of low quality.  Whatever your reasons, you may want to consider container gardening.  Container gardening takes less space and water, produces more per square foot, requires less maintenance and no large equipment.  It is ideal for town folk with limited room and/or high water bills.  It also suits those will less time and energy to work a big garden.  Container gardens can come in many packages.  Pots, old feed tubs, split barrels, are perrienal favorites but can get difficult to keep watered in the heat of the summer.  Raised beds are excellent for larger gardens and, if built up 18 to 24 in. can reduce stress on the back.  They also hold water longer than smaller containers.  Another good choice is the Earthbox.  It is an all-in-one package with water storage in the bottom that takes advantage of the soils natural wicking characteristics.  While pricey, they offer the most freedom and self-sufficiency.  You can see an Earthbox above with broccoli.

Preventing Grassburs...Naturally

March is the time to to apply horticultural corn gluten to prevent grassburs.  Corn gluten is a natural non-selective pre-emergent which means that it prohibits all plant species from germinating from seed.  So don't apply it anywhere you want to grow plants from seeds such as gardens, wild flowers and flower beds.  You will notice significant reduction in grassburs the first year and vigilence for three years will get the population under control.  A nice benefit of corn gluten is that it is also a good organic fertilizer with 9-10 percent nitrogen...and of course it contains no harmful chemicals!  You may also want use it in your garden to prevent weeds once all plants are up and growing.  Application rate is 15 to 20 pounds per 1000 sq. ft. and it lasts for 10-12 weeks.  You may need to apply a second time in a wet summer and/or fall.  If dry, water it in to activate it.

Spring Gardening...Naturally

It's hot in the Texas Hill Country today. 90 degrees in February. Still be careful - it's going to freeze yet! Now is the time to preparing your soil..and the soil is the key for great veggies.